Table of Contents
Stuff That Keeps Your Bike (and Wallet) Intact
Frame Sliders
Engine Guards
Skid Plates
Radiator Guards
Chain Guards
Staying Connected Without Looking Like a Dork
Handlebar Risers
Heated Grips
Phone Mounts
USB Charging Ports
Intercom Systems
Parts That Actually Matter When You're Riding
Auxiliary Lighting
Windscreens
Fork Gaiters
Clutch and Brake Levers
Bar End Weights
Carrying What You Need Without Permanent Commitment
Tank Bags
Tail Bags
Saddlebag Supports
TL;DR
Frame sliders will save you $1,200 in fairing damage after your first parking lot drop. Heated grips mean you can actually feel the controls in cold weather. Most phone mounts break or vibrate loose within six months. Auxiliary lights are the difference between seeing the road and guessing where it goes. Everything else depends on how you actually ride.
Stuff That Keeps Your Bike (and Wallet) Intact
I dropped my SV650 in my own driveway. Not while riding. Just trying to back it up. The kickstand wasn't down all the way, and I watched the bike tip over in slow motion like an idiot.
Total damage? Zero. The frame slider scraped about halfway through, bar end got a scratch. Without sliders, I'd have been staring at an $800 repair bill minimum: cracked fairing, broken clutch lever, scraped engine cover, bent handlebar.
Most of us skip this stuff until after the first expensive mistake. Here's what actually prevents damage before it costs you serious money.
1. Frame Sliders
Frame sliders bolt to your bike's frame and stick out past the fairings. When your bike goes down, these take the hit instead of everything else.
I paid $167 for T-Rex Racing sliders. Installation took 20 minutes with a 17mm socket. They stick out about two inches per side, and yeah, some people think they look dorky. Those people haven't dropped a bike yet.
The material matters. Delrin sliders slide across pavement instead of catching. I've seen crash videos where aluminum sliders dig into asphalt and flip the bike, which defeats the entire point. Delrin costs less and works better. Physics doesn't care how good your bike looks.
Pick sliders that extend far enough to protect your widest points without creating so much leverage they'll rip out the frame mounts. Most quality manufacturers have done the engineering on this. Shogun, T-Rex, and Woodcraft all make solid options. Skip the $40 Amazon specials that'll crack on impact.
If you ride, you'll drop it eventually. Parking lot tip-over, gravel in a turn, oil patch you didn't see. Frame sliders are the difference between picking up your bike and riding away versus calling your insurance company.
2. Engine Guards
I watched a guy crack his engine case in a Walmart parking lot last month. Simple drop while backing out of a spot. The bike dumped all its oil right there. He had to get towed home.
His bike looked cleaner than mine without crash bars, right up until it didn't.
Engine guards create a protective cage around your engine cases. They're particularly useful on big bikes where the weight makes drops more likely during low-speed stuff. My 650-pound adventure bike gets guards. My 380-pound supermoto doesn't need them as badly.
Modern designs integrate better than the old chrome bars your dad's cruiser had. Some manufacturers offer powder-coated options that match your bike's color. SW-Motech makes excellent guards. Heed makes bulletproof options for adventure bikes.
The guards add 8-12 pounds, all of it high on the bike. You'll feel it in parking lots and U-turns. That's the trade-off for protection.
One critical thing: poorly designed guards can trap your leg during a crash. Good guards position themselves to protect components while maintaining enough clearance that you won't get pinned underneath your own bike. Check reviews for your specific bike model before buying. When selecting protective gear for your ride, consider how these guards work alongside other essential the best motorcycle accessories to create a complete safety system.
3. Skid Plates
Your engine's underside sits lower than you think. I bottomed out on that dip on Highway 38 near Big Bear last summer. Heard the scrape, felt my stomach drop, checked later. Just the skid plate. Without it, that would've been my oil pan.
Skid plates shield the oil pan, exhaust headers, and other vulnerable bits from rocks, curbs, and whatever else you drag over. Aluminum works fine for street riding. Off-road? Get steel or composite. Installation is usually four bolts and maybe twenty minutes.
The weight matters because you're adding mass to the lowest point of your bike. Affects handling slightly. Ricochet makes lightweight aluminum plates. Flatland Racing does steel for serious off-road use. Most add 3-5 pounds.
If you never leave pavement, you can probably skip this and get heated grips instead. But if you ride dirt roads, gravel, or just have questionable speed bump judgment like me, a skid plate pays for itself the first time you scrape.
4. Radiator Guards
A rock punched through my buddy's radiator on a group ride last year. We were 60 miles from the nearest town. He watched his temp gauge climb while coolant dripped onto the road. That was a $400 tow plus a $350 radiator.
Radiator guards are mesh or perforated metal screens that bolt in front of your cooling system. They stop debris while maintaining airflow. The mesh needs to be fine enough to catch rocks but open enough that it doesn't restrict cooling.
You'll find simple mesh screens that bolt over the radiator, or more elaborate guards that integrate with bodywork. I run a basic mesh guard from Cox Racing. Cost me $78, installed in 20 minutes.
Some riders skip these because they don't ride off-road. Highway speeds turn even small road debris into projectiles. I recommend guards on any bike where the radiator sits exposed at the front.
5. Chain Guards
Chain guards keep road grime off your chain and prevent your pants from getting caught in the sprocket. Yes, that happens. Yes, it's as bad as it sounds.
Stock guards do an okay job. Aftermarket options extend further and provide better coverage. Carbon fiber guards look sharp and resist impact better than plastic. I've got an LighTech carbon guard on my sport bike. Looks good, works better than stock.
If you've ever cleaned a chain caked with road tar, you'll understand why extended coverage matters. Better guard means less frequent cleaning and longer chain life. Installation is straightforward, usually a few bolts near the swingarm.
The real value shows up in reduced maintenance. Protecting your chain is just one aspect of comprehensive motorcycle maintenance that keeps your bike running reliably for years.
Protection Type |
Cost Range |
Damage Prevented |
Installation Difficulty |
Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
Frame Sliders |
$100-$300 |
Fairings, engine covers, handlebars |
Easy (2-3 bolts) |
Sport bikes, naked bikes |
Engine Guards |
$150-$500 |
Engine cases, lower fairings |
Moderate (multiple mounting points) |
Cruisers, touring bikes, adventure bikes |
Skid Plates |
$80-$400 |
Oil pan, exhaust headers, undercarriage |
Easy to Moderate |
Adventure bikes, dual-sport, off-road |
Radiator Guards |
$50-$200 |
Radiator core, cooling fins |
Easy (bolt-on or clip-on) |
All bikes with exposed radiators |
Chain Guards |
$40-$150 |
Chain, sprocket, clothing |
Easy (swingarm mounting) |
All chain-drive motorcycles |
Staying Connected Without Looking Like a Dork
Riding used to mean total disconnection. That's changed. Pretending otherwise ignores how we actually use our bikes now. These parts address modern riding reality without turning your motorcycle into a rolling smartphone dock.
6. Handlebar Risers
Stock handlebar positions are designed for average rider proportions, which means they're wrong for most of us. I'm 6'1" and rode my first sport bike hunched over like I was apologizing to the front tire. After three hours, my shoulders were destroyed.
Risers lift and sometimes pull the bars back, changing your riding position in ways that reduce shoulder and wrist strain. I added 25mm risers to my FZ-07. The difference felt subtle at first but after a few hundred miles, I realized "fine" and "comfortable" aren't the same thing.
Most risers give you 20-40mm of lift. Rox Speed FX makes adjustable risers that let you dial in position. Helibars offers model-specific options. Installation takes maybe an hour.
The catch: raising your bars might require longer brake lines and cables, depending on how much adjustment you're making. On my bike, stock cables worked fine with 25mm risers. Any more and I'd have needed new lines.
Taller riders benefit most obviously, but even average-height riders often find that a slight adjustment transforms comfort on longer rides.
7. Heated Grips
I used to tough it out. Thick gloves, hand warmers in the pockets, that stupid "real riders don't need heat" mentality. Then I rode to work one November morning. 38 degrees, 45-minute commute. Couldn't feel my fingers well enough to pull the clutch lever smoothly at stoplights.
That's not tough. That's dangerous.
Installed Oxford heated grips that weekend. $94 on Amazon, two hours of installation. Would've been one hour if I hadn't stripped a screw like an idiot. Bring a JIS screwdriver, not a Phillips.
Here's what nobody tells you: the heat builds gradually. Level 1 is barely warm. Level 3 is perfect. Level 5 is "why is this even an option?" I run Level 2 in 50-degree weather, Level 3 below 40.
They pull 3.5 amps at full blast. My bike's charging system handles it fine, but if you're running auxiliary lights and heated gear simultaneously on an older bike, check your stator output first. Older charging systems can struggle.
Heated gloves work until the battery dies, which is always 20 minutes before you get home. Heated grips work until your bike dies. I'll take the reliability.
This was the best $94 I've spent on my bike. I ride 4-5 months longer per year now. That's worth way more than the cost.
8. Phone Mounts
I've destroyed three phone mounts.
First was a RAM X-Grip. $45. Vibrated loose on the highway. Phone fell off at 65 mph. Learned that lesson the expensive way.
Second was an Amazon special. $22. Literally cracked in half after two weeks. The plastic couldn't handle vibration. You get what you pay for.
Third was a Quad Lock. $80. Lasted six months, then the vibration dampener disintegrated. Good while it worked, but shouldn't fail that fast.
What I use now: Rokform magnetic mount. Been on my bike for 18 months, zero issues.
The magnet is strong enough that I've forgotten it's not mechanically locked. I grab the phone expecting resistance and it just pops off. One-handed attachment, one-handed removal. Holds through everything including that sketchy gravel section on Angeles Crest Highway.
The vibration issue matters more than most riders realize. Phone cameras have optical image stabilization with tiny motors that move the lens. Motorcycle vibration kills these motors. I've replaced two iPhone cameras before I figured this out. Rokform's motorcycle phone mounts include dampening built into the case. My current phone has 12,000 miles on it. Camera still works.
Cost is $130 for mount plus case. Expensive. Also cheaper than replacing your phone. For riders who need reliable device access, understanding vibration dampeners can make the difference between a phone that survives the ride and one that doesn't.
I'm not sponsored by them or whatever. I just got tired of buying mounts that sucked.
9. USB Charging Ports
Running GPS navigation drains your phone faster than you'd expect. I've had my phone die 30 minutes from home with no idea how to get there because I relied entirely on GPS.
USB charging ports wire into your bike's electrical system and provide power where you need it. Minimum 2.1A for modern phones. Anything less charges too slowly to keep up with GPS and screen-on time.
The key spec is weather resistance. Cheap ports fail when moisture gets inside, which happens faster than you'd think even without direct rain. I run a RAM USB port with a rubber cap. $35, hasn't failed in three years.
Mount location matters. I've got mine near the handlebars, right next to my phone mount. Some riders install them under the seat, which is fine until you need to plug something in while riding.
Hardwiring requires basic electrical knowledge and access to your bike's battery or fuse box. If you can use a multimeter, you can do this. If electrical work scares you, pay a shop $50 to install it. Some systems include voltage displays that let you monitor battery health, which adds diagnostic value beyond just charging devices.
10. Intercom Systems
Riding solo, intercoms seemed unnecessary. Then I started riding with friends and got tired of pulling over every 20 minutes to figure out where we were going.
Modern systems connect to your phone via Bluetooth and integrate with other riders' units for bike-to-bike communication. Sound quality separates good systems from garbage. Cheap intercoms work fine in parking lots but become useless above 50 mph.
I run a Cardo Packtalk Bold. $320. Worth every penny. Clear audio at highway speeds, connects to up to 15 riders, battery lasts 13 hours. The mesh networking maintains connections even when riders spread out beyond typical Bluetooth range.
Installation means mounting speakers and a microphone inside your helmet, with a control unit on the exterior. Takes about 30 minutes the first time. Voice-activated controls let you manage calls and music without taking hands off the bars.
Sena makes solid systems too. The SMH10 is their budget option around $150. Works well for two riders. If you're doing group rides with more than four people, spend the extra money on mesh networking.
The first time you need to tell your riding buddy about the cop hiding behind that overpass, you'll understand why communication matters.
Feature |
Budget Systems ($50-$100) |
Mid-Range ($150-$250) |
Premium ($300-$500) |
|---|---|---|---|
Bluetooth Range |
500-800m |
1,000-1,500m |
2,000m+ with mesh |
Battery Life |
6-8 hours |
10-13 hours |
15-20 hours |
Intercom Riders |
2-4 riders |
4-8 riders |
8-16 riders |
Noise Cancellation |
Basic |
Advanced DSP |
Premium noise filtering |
Music Quality |
Mono/Low |
Stereo/Good |
HD Audio/Excellent |
Water Resistance |
IP54 (splash) |
IP65 (rain) |
IP67 (submersible) |
Voice Commands |
Limited/None |
Basic commands |
Full voice control |
Parts That Actually Matter When You're Riding
Stock parts get your bike out of the factory. These upgrades address what happens when you actually ride the thing in varied conditions over time.
11. Auxiliary Lighting
Your stock headlight probably isn't bright enough for serious night riding. I found this out riding down from Palomar Mountain at 2 AM. My headlight was basically a suggestion of where the road might be.
Auxiliary lights mount to crash bars, fork tubes, or fairings and dramatically improve visibility. LED technology changed everything. My old halogen aux lights pulled so much power I couldn't run heated grips at the same time. The LEDs I have now draw almost nothing and light up the road like daytime.
You'll choose between spot beams (long-distance visibility) and flood patterns (wider coverage closer to the bike). Most riders benefit from a combination. I run Denali D4 spots for distance and keep my high beam for flood. Total cost was $287.
Wiring requires connecting to your electrical system, ideally through a relay to prevent overloading your headlight circuit. If you've never wired anything, this is where you might want to pay a shop. Or watch three YouTube videos and figure it out like I did.
Some states regulate auxiliary light use. California requires them to be off during the day unless visibility is reduced. Check local laws before you install them and immediately ignore them like everyone else.
The real value shows up when you're riding unfamiliar roads at dusk or dealing with fog that turns your stock light into a dim suggestion. I've ridden mountain passes at night where auxiliary lights made the difference between seeing the road and guessing where it went.
12. Windscreens: I've Gotten This Wrong Twice
First mistake: bought a tall touring screen for my naked bike because I was tired of wind blast on the highway. It created so much turbulence around my helmet that I got a headache after 20 minutes. The wind noise was actually louder than with no screen at all.
Returned it. Tried a short sport screen. Now the wind hit me directly in the chest, which was somehow worse.
What actually works: the top edge should sit about an inch above your eye line when you're in normal riding position. Not when you're sitting upright at a stoplight. When you're actually riding.
This puts your head in the calm air pocket behind the screen without creating that weird vacuum effect that pulls you forward.
The buffeting problem: if you hear a rhythmic whomp-whomp-whomp around your helmet, your screen is creating vortices. Either go taller or shorter. There's no middle ground fix. I went shorter and just accepted some wind blast.
Adjustable screens are worth it if you do highway and city riding. I run mine low in town (better visibility), higher on the interstate (less fatigue). The MRA VarioScreen on my bike has 3-inch adjustment range. Takes two seconds to change while riding.
Tinted screens look cool until you're riding at dusk and can't see anything.
Installation is four bolts on most bikes. Maybe 15 minutes. If you can change your oil, you can swap a windscreen.
I've spent $400 total on three different screens to figure this out. Start with a cheap adjustable one and experiment before you buy an expensive fixed-height screen. Understanding proper ergonomics extends beyond windscreens to include long distance motorcycle riding techniques that reduce fatigue on extended trips.
13. Fork Gaiters
Fork seals fail when debris scores the fork tubes during compression. Fork gaiters are accordion-style boots that cover the exposed fork tube and prevent rocks, dirt, and road salt from reaching the seals.
The aesthetic is retro. Works on some bikes, looks out of place on others. My adventure bike has them. My sport bike doesn't because they'd look ridiculous.
Installation involves removing the front wheel and sliding the gaiters over the fork tubes, then securing them with clamps at top and bottom. Takes about an hour if you've done it before. Two hours if you haven't.
Replacing fork seals costs $200-400 in labor alone. Gaiters cost $60 and prevent the problem. I've seen bikes with pristine fork seals after years of winter riding because the gaiters kept the salt and grime away from the critical surfaces.
If you ride in winter or on gravel roads, get them. If you only ride clean pavement in summer, probably skip it.
14. Clutch and Brake Levers
Aftermarket levers offer adjustability that stock parts rarely provide. You're changing the reach distance and sometimes the lever angle, which affects comfort and control.
Shorter riders particularly benefit from levers that bring the engagement point closer to the bars. I've got average-sized hands and still appreciate being able to fine-tune reach.
The material matters because cheap levers can snap during a crash when you need them most. I learned this when mine snapped during a panic stop. Spend the extra $50 for quality levers from Pazzo or ASV.
Folding levers pivot on impact, reducing the chance of breaking entirely. They cost more but survive crashes better. My current ASV levers have survived two drops without damage. The stock levers they replaced broke both times.
Installation is straightforward: remove the stock lever, transfer the necessary components, bolt the new lever in place. Some systems include span adjustment that lets you fine-tune reach on the fly. Takes maybe 30 minutes per side.
The difference in comfort shows up most clearly on long rides where small ergonomic improvements compound over hours. My hands used to cramp after two hours. With properly adjusted levers, I can ride all day.
15. Bar End Weights
My hands used to go numb after an hour on the highway. Thought it was just part of riding. Then I added bar end weights and the vibration disappeared.
Bar end weights dampen vibrations by adding mass to the ends of your bars. It's just physics. More mass at the end of the bars dampens the resonance. I don't fully understand it and don't need to. More weight equals less buzz in my hands. That's all I care about.
You're adding 100-200 grams per side, which doesn't sound like much but makes a noticeable difference. Installation involves removing your stock bar ends and threading the weights into place. Some designs incorporate other functions like integrated mirrors or LED turn signals.
Do bar end weights actually work or is it placebo? I don't know and I don't care. My hands feel better. That's enough for me.
Most riders notice the difference within the first few miles, particularly at highway speeds where vibration is most pronounced. I've eliminated hand numbness on bikes where I thought the problem was just part of the experience.
Cost me $60 and fifteen minutes to install. Best return on investment for comfort I've found.
Carrying What You Need Without Permanent Commitment
You need to carry stuff, but permanent luggage systems aren't always the answer. These solutions give you flexibility without drilling holes in your bike.
16. Tank Bags
Tank bags mount magnetically or with straps and provide easily accessible storage for items you need during the ride. I use mine for tools, snacks, and layers I might need if weather changes.
Size matters. Too large and the bag interferes with your riding position. Too small and it's pointless. I run a 12-liter bag on my sport bike, 20-liter on my adventure bike.
Magnetic mounting works great on steel tanks but requires adapter plates on plastic or aluminum tanks. Strap systems work universally but take longer to install and remove. I prefer magnetic because I can take the bag with me when I stop, which matters if you're carrying anything valuable.
The best bags include rain covers and reinforced bases that prevent wear on your tank's finish. SW-Motech makes excellent tank bags. Givi bags are bombproof but heavy.
Quick-release systems mean you can take the bag with you when you stop. Rokform's magnetic mounting technology, which they use in their phone systems, represents the kind of secure-but-removable attachment that tank bags need. For riders seeking versatile carrying solutions, exploring motorcycle handlebar phone mounts reveals similar magnetic attachment principles that work across different accessories.
17. Tail Bags
Tail bags strap to your passenger seat or rear rack and expand your carrying capacity without permanent installation. They work for weekend trips or daily commuting when you need more space than a tank bag provides.
The challenge is keeping them stable because a shifting load affects handling. I learned this when my poorly secured bag shifted mid-corner and nearly put me in the ditch. Compression straps are not optional. Cinch everything down tight.
Waterproofing varies from water-resistant (fine for light rain) to fully waterproof (sealed seams and roll-top closures). I've had "water-resistant" bags leak in heavy rain. If you ride in wet climates, spend the extra money for fully waterproof.
Size ranges from 20 liters (day trip capacity) to 60+ liters (multi-day touring). I've got a Kriega US-20 that expands to 30 liters when needed. Cost $180, worth every penny. The straps are bulletproof and the bag has survived three years of abuse.
Some bags expand when you need extra space and compress when you don't, which is more practical than carrying a huge bag when you only need a small one.
18. Saddlebag Supports
Soft saddlebags sag into your rear wheel or exhaust without proper support. I've melted bag material on hot pipes before learning this lesson the expensive way.
Support brackets bolt to your bike's frame and create a stable platform that keeps bags away from moving parts. They're essential if you're using soft luggage on a bike that wasn't designed for it.
Hard mounting points matter because you're trusting these brackets to prevent a bag from getting caught in your wheel at speed. That's not hypothetical. I've seen it happen. It's terrifying.
Installation varies by bike but usually involves frame mounting points near the rear axle. Some bikes have them built in. Others require drilling. Check forums for your specific bike before you buy anything, or you'll be returning parts.
The brackets should position bags high enough to clear the exhaust and far enough from the wheel that even when fully loaded, there's no contact. Some systems include integrated turn signal relocators because the bags might block your stock signals.
Support brackets also protect your bags from heat damage when they're positioned near exhaust pipes. My exhaust runs at 400+ degrees. Without supports, bags would melt within minutes.
Why Your Phone Needs Protection Too
You've invested in protecting your bike, but what about the device you rely on for navigation, communication, and documentation?
Most phone mounts secure your device but don't protect it from the elements or impact. I've seen riders lose phones to vibration damage even when the mount held firm because the constant shaking destroys internal components over time.
Rokform builds cases that integrate with their mounting systems to create a complete protection solution. The cases include shock absorption that matters when you're dealing with motorcycle vibration, and the magnetic mounting system provides security without the complexity of mechanical clamps.
When you're upgrading your bike with aftermarket parts, your phone deserves the same attention to durability and function. Check out Rokform's motorcycle phone mounts and cases designed specifically for riders who need reliable access to their devices without compromising protection.
Final Thoughts
I've got $800 worth of accessories in my garage that I used exactly once. A tail bag that was too small. Auxiliary lights I never wired up. A tank bag that blocked my instruments. You'll make mistakes too.
Start with frame sliders and heated grips if you ride in cold weather. Add a decent phone mount before you drop your iPhone at 70 mph like I almost did. Everything else depends on how you actually ride, not what looks cool in the catalog.
The parts that matter most aren't always the ones that look impressive in photos. Frame sliders prevent problems before they start. Heated grips extend your season more effectively than any performance mod. A good phone mount costs less than one speeding ticket you might avoid with working navigation.
Your bike came from the factory as a compromise between cost, regulations, and average use cases. These 18 items let you customize around your specific riding style and conditions without turning into a rolling accessory catalog.
Each upgrade should serve a clear purpose based on how you actually use your bike. I've wasted money on accessories that seemed useful in theory but gathered dust in practice. The parts that earn their place are the ones you forget about until the moment they save you money, extend your ride, or make the experience more enjoyable.
For a comprehensive view of essential gear beyond parts, review our guide to top motorcycle helmet accessories that complement these upgrades perfectly.
And if you drop your bike in a parking lot, at least you'll have sliders to show for it.
Ride safe. Or at least ride with protection.
